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.	. Canon EOS 3 Review of a High Tech Wonder Peter Kun Frary With weather and dust seals, high grade components and heavy-duty construction, the EOS 3 is in a different class than most EOS cameras. It is a serious professional tool and it feels like one when you pick it up. While lighter cameras bob around in the wind, the EOS 3 and PB-E2 Booster Drive feel as solid as a brick and thus lend themselves to rock steady shooting. However, this is not a camera for wimps as it weighs about the same as a Les Paul Junior. Despite the heft, the EOS 3 and PB-E2 feel more comfortable in the hand than any camera I have held. Big honkin' telephoto lenses like the EF 300 4L or the EF 70-200 2.8L USM balance perfectly on this baby. Palm leaf in Lagoon • Ala Moana Beach Park • EOS 3, EF 75-300 4.0-5.6 IS USM, Elite Chrome Major Features Forty-Five-point wide area auto focus • Autofocus may be activated by eye controlled focus (ECF), automatic selection (fuzzy logic) or manually dialed in. The 45 sensors are within an ellipse etched on the viewfinder screen. However, only active sensors are visible during AF as a momentary red flash. Viewfinder • This is one of brightest and most vivid viewfinders I have ever used, even brighter than the A2. If you thrive on twilight hues, this is the viewfinder for you. Canon rates it at .72 magnification with 97% viewfinder coverage. Moreover, there is a wealth of information displayed in green: shutter speed, F stop, flash ready, frame numbers, exposure compensation and a duo ambient light and flash exposure scale. Display brightness varies according to ambient light levels. Motor Drive • Predictive AI Servo at 7 fps with Power Drive Booster PB-E2 (without PB-E2, 4.5 fps). The motor drive and mirror slap are loud compared to the A2 or Elan series, but at least models will know when to change poses. E-TTL Flash Circuits • When using EX series Speedlites, Flash AE compensation, Flash Exposure Lock (FEL) and second curtain sync may be activated with onboard camera controls. Wireless and multiple flash with ratio control is possible with 420EX and 550EX Speedlites. TTL and A-TTL flash are also available with appropriate Speedlites. Quick Control Dial (QCD) • The EOS 1 QCD legacy continues with a large rear thumb wheel to adjust exposure compensation, aperture, etc. Shutter Speeds • A Rotary Magnet Shutter (no touching metal parts) delivers 1/8000 to 30 seconds in 1/3 stop increments (1/2 stops via custom function). Bulb and self timer ability. 1/200 flash sync. Four metering patters • 21-zone evaluative, center weighted partial (8.5%) and spot meter (2.4%). Automatic multiple spot averaging supported. Multitude of exposure modes • Programmed AE, aperture priority, shutter priority, manual and depth of field. Moreover, you may override P, AV and TV modes with -2 to +2 of exposure compensation or auto bracketing. No programmed "PIC" modes (sports, macro, portrait, etc.). PC Socket • Plug in a PC cord and you can trigger studio strobes or flashmeters the old fashion way. Nine Interchangeable focusing screens Illuminated LCD • A nice blue glow may be activated with a top deck button. The LCD glow matches with Canon Speedlites. Depth of Field Preview • A button on the front stops down the lens and lets you preview depth of field. The same button also activates the modeling light of E-TTL Speedlites in wireless mode. 17 Custom Functions • This feature lets you customize some controls and/or features. For example, you may move AF activation to another button or have a choice of leaving the film leader in or out after rewind. An 18th custom function, oddly labeled as CF-19, is available as a service option (firmware 1.7). CF-19 (1-4) applies only to button found on IS superteles, e.g., EF300 f/2.8L IS, EF400 f/2.8L IS, EF500 f/4L IS & EF600 f/4L IS. Mirror Lockup • By setting a custom function (CF12) you may lock up the mirror: press the shutter once to lock up the mirror and again to fire the shutter. This method is fiddley and slow compared to the method used for the A2. Locking up the mirror helps avoid vibration during high magnification photography or slow shutter speeds. Hybrid Fiberglass Reinforced Polycarbonate and Metal Body • According to the Canon EOS Technical Overview (CT2-1114-001), the EOS 3 body is..."constructed of glass-fiber reinforced polycarbonate with aluminum inserts around the aperture area with exterior panels of rigid engineering plastic." Weather Resistant Design • The body sports water and dust seals and is build to the same durability and sealing specs as the EOS 1N. For example, all buttons and dials use rubber gaskets to block out water droplets. The back door has a seal as well. Important electrical contacts are bipolar and gold plated. I've been caught in tropical downpours many times with my EOS 3 and A2. Not once did the EOS 3 jam or lockup. It just kept on tickin.' The A2, in a similar downpour, ate it. Luckily it rose from the dead after drying out for a week! If you frequently shoot in wet or dusty conditions this camera should be able to take it. Canon EOS 3 • This 780 g (27.5 oz) critter is ready to gobble up a lens. Suck 'em up brah! User Interface The EOS 3 interface--like the EOS 1, 1N and 1V--is based on pushbuttons and menus, probably because it is easier to seal buttons than dials. This interface is not as easy to use as the knob-twisting type in the Elan 7E or A2. For example, to change drive modes, hold down the Mode button with a left-hand finger, tap the Drive button with another left-hand finger and rotate the Main Dial with your right-hand thumb while looking at the LCD. Fortunately, the Power Drive Booster PB-E2 makes vertical shooting easy with a duplicate shutter, Main Dial, AE Lock and AF Point Selector. The vertical shutter release of the PB-E2 is touchy: I took many unintentional frames before I got used to it. I have one minor gripe: program mode (P) is shiftable in one stop increments only. All my other EOS cameras are shiftable in half stop increments. Why change a good thing? A choice of half or whole stop increments via a custom function would be useful addition. Eye Controlled Focus ECF rocked the photographic world when it appeared in the EOS 5/A2E in 1992. The EOS 3's implementation of ECF is more refined than that of the EOS 5/A2E, but operation is the same: focus by looking at the subject while pressing the shutter button. One of the 45 AF sensors in the viewfinder confirms focus by flashing red. Foreground? Background? Off-center subject? It's your choice. No more locking focus and recomposing. For ECF to work, it must be calibrated for your eye. Another person's calibration won't work for you. Calibration is simple: twist the knob to CAL and look at the flashing rectangle while pressing the shutter. Calibrations are cumulative, i.e., the camera learns to track your eye better with each calibration, especially if you calibrate with different lighting and lenses. It took me several dozen calibrations to achieve consistent results. However, once calibrated, ECF was wonderfully fast and reliable in good light. ECF is noticeably faster than the A2E and Elan IIE. There is a gotcha for me: ECF is sensitive to my eye's position relative to the viewfinder (your mileage may vary). If I shift my eye off-center or too close ECF fails, especially during calibration. I decided to install a larger eyecup, the ED-E, to see if it helped. The ED-E is a huge eyecup that wraps around your eye and blocks out external light. It can be rotated for vertical shots or for left-eyed folk. I also like it for its enhanced viewfinder visibility. What a difference it made! With the ED-E, ECF proved itself much more reliable for me during daylight shooting. I believe the shielding from stray light, reduced squinting, and easier centering of my eye contributed to the improvement. ED-E Eyecup installed on the EOS Elan 7E • The ED-E Eyecup helps reduce glare and greatly increases ECF reliability for me. For me, ECF works extremely well on the EOS 3, but the Elan 7E is more reliable right out of the box. First, the Elan 7E has precise AF rectangles to look at whereas the EOS 3 has a large ellipse etched on the viewfinder screen. The ellipse contains a concentrated mass of 45 sensors but you can't precisely target individual sensors because they're invisible. In fairness, Canon states the EOS 3 45-point AF allows you to "automatically focus by area" and doesn't claim to target individual sensors like the A2E or Elan IIE. The manual explains: Eye-Control AF enables you to focus at where you look within the area AF ellipse in the viewfinder. The camera instantly detects where your eye is looking and activates the corresponding focusing point (among the 45) to focus. With the EOS 3, about 20% of the time ECF selects a sensor adjacent to the one I intended. Thus, it always gets the general area but sometimes snags the sensor above, below or to the side of the one I preferred. Fortunately, there is an excellent workaround: custom function CF13-2 may be set to limit the AF sensors to 11, thereby improving speed and gaining 100% accuracy (45 sensors was a bit of overkill anyway). In other words, the Elan 7E has no perceived speed or accuracy advantages over the EOS 3 with CF13-2 enabled--ECF is equally effective on both cameras. Some people have reported ECF difficulty, especially if they wear glasses with special coatings. Fortunately, the fuzzy logic chip does an excellent job of selecting focus. You may also select AF sensors manually with the QCD. Autofocus With a F2.8 or faster lens mounted, the AF system of the EOS 3 blows the Elans, A2 and Rebels out of the water, especially when the light levels get dim or in AI Servo. However, there is a gotcha: you need a F2.8 or faster lens to get this high speed performance and accuracy. Why? The center AF sensor is a cross sensor with a F4 or faster lens. The middle cluster of six AF sensors are cross sensors with a F2.8 or faster lens. The remainder are vertical or horizontal only sensors that work with F5.6 or faster lenses. When a slow lens is mounted, , e.g., EF 28-135 3.5-5.6 IS USM, the AF cross sensors revert to old fashion vertical sensors. Vertical sensors are mainly sensitive to horizontal lines. Scenes containing vertical lines, e.g., distant skyscrapers or rows of books, will not autofocus (you could tilt the camera to snag focus). Thus, the EOS 3--like the EOS 1, 1N and 1V--need fast lenses to realize full AF potential. However, there's an advantage to these picky AF sensors: better low light performance and AF accuracy than the A2, Elans or Rebel. Low Light AF All autofocus SLR cameras share similar limitations when shooting in low light. In low light photography, it is crucial to use fast lenses and focus on points of contrast. In other words, you can't merely point 'n shoot when lighting gets dim. You must pick your targets carefully. I normally disable ECF and use automatic selection of AF points when light gets dimmer. When it is really dim--below Ev 6--I manually select the center AF cross and target contrasty objects, e.g., the border between a roof and skyline. With that said, the EOS 3 can snag focus in candlelight murkiness while many other cameras rack back and forth. When there is little or no light there is simply not enough information for any passive AF system to focus. Unfortunately, the EOS 3 lacks an AF assist light and thus can't achieve AF under extreme low contrast or low light situations. Of course, this light is too dim for hand holding and, thus, a tripod is necessary. It's a shame Canon omitted the built-in near-infrared AF assist light. It made low-light AF elegant and convenient on the A2 and older Elans. The best cure is to use the AF assist light of a Speedlite. The EOS 3 has a custom function to expand the AF area and vastly improve AF performance with slow lenses and low light. CF 17-2 expands the AF points by one sensor vertically and 2 sensors horizontally. If you use slow zooms, this setting makes a night and day difference in AF performance! In normal AF mode (CF 17-0), the EF 28-135 IS USM is unreliable. With CF 17-2 set, the lens locks on to almost anything. Too bad it took me a year to figure this out! Without the use of an AF assist light, the low light AF of the EOS 3 is considerably better than my EOS IX, Elan 7E, Elan and A2 cameras. Initially the A2 appears to perform better because of its integral AF assist light. Disable the A2's AF assist light and the EOS 3 is clearly better at snagging focus at Ev 6 or lower. Metering The 21-zone Evaluative metering system is amazingly good. I have shot untold rolls of chromes and got consistently accurate exposures. I used multi-spot metering in tricky lighting for a while, but usually ended up with the same exposure as Evaluative metering. However, there is one aspect of metering I found different than other EOS cameras: the active focusing point strongly influences exposure. In other words, the object you focus on is given more weight in the camera's exposure calculation. My Elan 7E and A2 bias exposure slightly towards the AF point and tend to average the overall scene. The EOS 3 exposure bias is good most of the time just as long as you're aware of it. However, you must be careful not to focus on unusually light or dark areas and thereby throw metering off. If you like this type of control, you can go wholehog and link spot metering to 11 individual AF sensors (Custom Function 13-1). Then, use ECF to select individual AF points for focus and spot metering. Sailboat at Ala Moana • EOS 3, EF 70-200 4L USM, Elite Chrome Flash Unlike consumer models, Canon's pro cameras lack a popup TTL flash and AF assist light. Nevertheless, powerful flash features are hidden in the circuits of the EOS 3: evaluative E-TTL flash meter, three point TTL flash meter, wireless ability, second-curtain sync, FE Lock (flash exposure lock), flash exposure compensation , FP Flash (high speed sync) and auto flash bracketing (550EX only). Of course, you need an EX Speedlite, e.g., the 550EX or 420EX, to access E-TTL features. FE Lock, flash exposure compensation, modeling flash, and second-curtain sync may be controlled from the camera. If you have older A-TTL/TTL flash gear, take heart as the EZ series Speedlites are fully supported by the EOS 3. E-TTL Flash Metering When you press the shutter button, EX Speedlites fire a low power preflash to determine flash exposure a split second before exposure. The preflash is so near the main flash it appears to be a single flash, not two flashes. The camera's Evaluative meter, e.g., the 21-zone Evaluative meter in the EOS 3, is used to measure both ambient light and flash. In most modes the camera balances both flash and ambient light for a natural appearance. Fill-in Flash In bright light, above EV 10, the EX Speedlites provide automatic fill-in flash in Full Auto and P modes. In dim light, EV 10 and below, flash is the main light in Full Auto and P modes (the background may be dark). Av, Tv and M modes deliver automatic fill-in flash in any light, even at night (slow sync). Slow sync results in a natural balance between ambient light and flash. However, you may need a tripod due to the resulting slow shutter speeds. The active focusing point is linked to metering and, thus, flash exposure. In other words, there is an exposure bias in favor of the object you focus on. As I mentioned above, the EX Speedlites balance flash and background light perfectly in Av, Tv and M modes. There is an automatic flash reduction of -.5 to -1.5 stops depending on the strength of the ambient light. This balance makes the subject look natural, but is too perfectly blended with the background for some tastes and purposes, especially under dim lighting conditions. When I want the subject to standout from the background, I dial in +.5 or +1.0 of flash compensation or use P mode. P mode uses the flash as the main light--full power flash--under dim conditions (EV 10 or lower). Canon should make the before mentioned flash behavior clear in the manual as it is a source of confusion for many users. FE Lock & Flash Exposure Compensation FE Lock is great for off-center subjects or troublesome highlights that fool the meter. FE Lock works like a spot meter for flash. First, place the center AF sensor on your subject and press the FEL button (next to shutter button). The Speedlite fires a low power preflash. Exposure is determined by the reflectance of the subject in the spot metering circle, so be careful what you aim at. Use a medium toned area for best results. Finally, you have 16 seconds to recompose and shoot. The flash will expose the subject correctly even with usually light or dark backgrounds or an off-center subject. Unfortunately, the FE Lock preflash isn't people friendly as nobody enjoys being flashed in the face once for metering and a second time for the exposure. If you shoot people images, you will be more popular if you apply appropriate flash exposure compensation and forgo FE Lock. If you intend to use FE Lock on an unusually light or dark object, e.g., a white wedding dress, apply appropriate flash exposure compensation first (it doesn't work after FE Lock): subtract 1 to 2 stops of flash compensation for dark subjects and add 1 to 2 stops of flash exposure compensation for light subjects. Why? Spot meters are calibrated to read 18% gray tones. No matter where you point, the camera expects a medium tone (18% gray) and gives you the correct meter reading for this result. FP Flash FP Flash allows you to sync at any shutter speed, albeit with loss of power (the EOS 3's normal sync is 1/200). However, this is great for daytime fill flash as it allows use of large apertures or fast film. FP Flash works best in Av, Tv and M modes where the user has control over aperture and/or shutter speed. When a Speedlite is mounted on the Elan 7E, P and DEP* modes are not shiftable making these modes almost useless for FP Flash. Moreover, P mode tends to favor smaller apertures over faster shutter speeds when a Speedlite is mounted. Second curtain sync does not work with FP Flash (high speed sync). AF Assist Light Focusing in the dark with a Speedlite quick and discreet thanks to the near-infrared AF assist light. With the 550EX mounted, low light AF is vastly improved: the EOS 3 will AF a blank wall in total darkness from over 30 feet away. The 550EX is the only shoe flash that works with all 45 of the EOS 3's AF sensors. The 220EX, 380EX, 430EZ and Sigma EF-500 Super only cover the center AF sensor. The 420EX covers most but misses some of the outer sensors. The Speedlite Transmitter ST-E2 covers all 45 AF sensors and is great if you only need an AF assist light. Flash Exposure Confirmation Light The 420EX and 550EX have a flash exposure confirmation light next to the Pilot Light. If the flash exposure is accurate, it glows green for 3 seconds. If it doesn't glow, move closer and try again. This is a feature many EOS shooters have waited years for. Hopefully, Canon will someday put a flash exposure confirmation light in the viewfinder of all its cameras too! Shiftable DEP Mode? The EOS A2, Elan and IX have a feature that the EOS 3 and other late model EOS SLRs lack: shiftable DEP mode. DEP mode refers to depth of field autoexposure. By focusing on the nearest and farthest points desired in focus, the camera automatically sets hyperfocal distance and aperture to render everything within those two points sharp. The EOS A2, Elan and IX allow you to shift the program to increase or decrease depth of field (I normally increase depth of field). I miss this feature on my EOS 3 and Elan 7E! To get the same result on these cameras, I use the DEP mode, note the aperture setting, disable AF (so the hyperfocal distance won't change), change mode to Av and set a stop or two smaller aperture. Power Efficiency I'm always ready for grab shots and thus leave my EOS 3/BP-E2 loaded with film and turned on for weeks at a time (on the kitchen table or in the camera bag). Leaving the camera on or off doesn't influence battery drain much. My AA lithiums (BP-E2) power through about 100 rolls in a year's time before depletion. I mainly use the EF200 2.8L USM, EF70-200 4L USM and EF300 4L USM on this body. I also leave my EOS A2 on for weeks at a time and the single 2CR5 still powers 30-35 rolls (preserving the command dial!). Major Accessories Power Drive Booster PB-E2 • The BP-E2 boosts the frame rate of the EOS 1, 1N, 1V and 3 The most universally useful accessory is the Power Drive Booster PB-E2. Besides increased grip surface, it boasts a duplicate set of controls for vertical shooting: shutter button, AE lock button, main dial, FE Lock / multi-spot metering button and AF focusing point selection button. It also sports a tripod socket and set of lugs for a handstrap or neckstrap. The polycarbonate PB-E2 is light, tough as nails, shielded with magnesium body plates and matches perfectly with the exterior of the EOS 3 and EOS 1 series. Although the EOS 3 is big and heavy with the PB-E2 mounted, it's extremely comfortable and secure to hold, especially when using big glass, e.g., EF 300 2.8L USM. In fact, the EOS 3/PB-E2 combo is the most comfortable and well balanced SLR I have ever used. It puts my Elan 7E/BP-300 and EOS 10D/BG-ED3 to shame. Canon EOS 3 with Power Drive Booster PB-E2 & EF 28-135 IS USM • A Rippin' Machine and the most comfortable and well balanced SLR I have ever used. Alkaline, lithium, Ni-Cad or Ni-MH AA batteries may be used with the PB-E2 mounted on the EOS 1N, 1V and 3. Lithium AAs should not be used with the original EOS 1 due to a lack of internal voltage regulation (the other batteries are OK). Incidentally, Lithium AAs are much lighter than alkaline AAs and are worth paying extra for their increased power and decreased weight. With eight alkaline or lithium AA batteries the PB-E2 increases motor speed from 4.5 fps to 6 fps in both continuous single shot or AI servo modes. The Ni-MH Pack NP-E2 nets you 7 fps with the EOS 3 (10 fps with the EOS 1V!). Battery Pack BP-E1 If you need a little more grip surface and would like to use AA batteries, the Battery Pack BP-E1 is available. Four AA batteries are housed in a clip along with a backup 2CR5 in the grip. A small switch on the back of the BP-E1 allows you to toggle between power sources. It also sports a tripod socket and set of lugs for a handstrap or neckstrap. The BP-E1 is constructed of beautifully finished polycarbonate with leatherette trim, matching perfectly with the EOS 1, 1N, 1V and 3. Alkaline, Ni-Cad and Ni-MH AA batteries may be used with the BP-E1 mounted on the EOS 1, 1N, 1V and 3. Canon warns not to use lithium AAs because the initial voltage (1.7 v) is too high and may damage the camera. The Battery Pack BP-E1 is an old EOS 1 accessory from the 1980s. I wonder if the warning about lithium AAs is valid for newer cameras such as the EOS 3 and 1V, cameras that have voltage regulation. After all, they allow lithium AAs in the Power Drive Booster PB-E2 whereas the EOS 1 does not. Sadly, with four alkaline AAs and a 2CR5 installed, the BP-E1 weights nearly as much as the PB-E2 with eight lithium AAs, although it's half the height. You could run set of lithium AAs down to 1.5 volts in a flash, check voltage with a multimeter and gleefully install them in the BP-E1. Now the bad news. The BP-E1 lacks a vertical release, Main Dial FEL or other controls (except for the battery switch). A vertical release would make this accessory a multitude of times more useful. Not everyone needs the film burning performance of the BP-E2. Remote Switch RS-80N3 The EOS 3 debuted the N3 remote release system, replacing the old 3-pin T-series remote socket. However, T series remote accessories may still be used with an adapter (RA-N3). Fortunately, the N3 quick-lock plug is much easier to use than the old system. The threaded attachment of the old 60T3 was very fiddley and slow, especially in the dark. The two main remote releases are the Remote Switch RS-80N3 and Timer Remote Controller TC-80N3. The RS-80N3 duplicates all shutter functions at the end of a 80 cm cord. The TC-80N3 adds timer functions and a LCD. Dioptric Adjustment Lenses The EOS 1N, 1V, 1D, Elan 7E and A2 all have built-in dioptric adjustment. Why did Canon omit this feature from the EOS 3? However, there is a full range of dioptric adjustment lenses available from +3 to -4. These are the same lenses used for the EOS A2 and Elan 7E. Focusing Screens There are nine user interchangeable focusing screens available in North America: Ec-A, Standard Microprism (for manual focus); New Split Screen (for manual focus); Ec-C, Laser Matte (EOS 1 screen with AF target); Ec-CII, Laser Matte; Ec-D Laser Matte with Grid (composition aid); Ec-H, Laser Matte with Scale (for magnification photography and copying); Ec-I, Laser Matte with cross hair reticle (astrophotography); Ec-L, Cross Split Screen (manual focus); Ec-N, New Laser Matte (standard screen) and Ec-R, New Laser Matte (spot metering circle). Interchangeable focusing screens are a welcome feature for picky photographers or specialized applications such as high magnification photography. I find the grid focusing screen (Ec-D) indispensable as a composition aid. My horizons are consistently straight now! Moreover, cleaning is easier with a removable screen (you may blow off both sides of the screen). Handle screens with extreme care as they're easily damaged or soiled. Never touch a screen with your fingers or blow on the screen with your breath. Instead, handle the screen with the supplied tool and clean it with a bulb blower. Canon EOS 3 & EF 200 2.8L USM • Kickass combo (EOS 10D/EF 50 2.5 CM & white reflectors) Final Remarks After using this camera for three years, I can say that it performs as advertised. I mainly use the EOS 3 to shoot on the beach and other wet environments. It took dust, rain and splashes without flinching and was utterly relievable, cranking out well exposed and focused chrome after chrome. The satin finish is tough, e.g., it's more scratch and polish resistant than my old EOS 1N. After a year the 1N's satin finish was shinny from rubbing on my body and camera bag. The finish on my EOS 3 still looks and feels satin. The Canon EOS 3 Technical Overview states that "the 45-Point Area AF is locked on the future." Indeed, testimony of the success of the 45-sensor AF array and 21-zone evaluative meter are found in subsequent pro models, the EOS 1V (2000), 1D (2002) and 1Ds (2003). The AF and metering systems of these cameras are based on the EOS 3, albeit without ECF. Moreover, an EOS 3 user will feel right at home with an EOS 1V or 1D as the user interfaces are very similar. I like this camera a lot and don't have any serious complaints. It's a wonderful camera that delivers the features, performance and durability that pros and serious amateurs need. The lack of built-in dioptric adjustment and an eyepiece blind are my main gripes. However, the EOS 3 is not a good camera for causal shooters: it's heavy, likes fast glass and has a longer learning curve than the Elan or Rebel series. Fortunately, your toil will be rewarded with an extremely precise and capable instrument. Firmware 1.6 and version 1.7 are identical, except that version 1.7 adds Custom Function 19 to the list of original 17 CFs in the EOS 3. Firmware prior to 1.6 (bodies manufactured before March 8, 1999) may have metering problems in low light. Firmware may be updated at a Canon Service Center. Source Materials Canon EOS 3 Instructions (CT1-1114-004). Canon Inc., 1998. Canon EOS 3 Technical Overview (CT2-1114-001). Canon Inc, 1998. More Images taken with the Canon EOS 3 (click to enlarge) 5/5/2002 • Updated 1/7/2006 ©Copyright 2002-2006 by Peter Kun Frary • All Rights Reserved	.
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